by Richard Montague
Madhur Jaffrey once said, “You think of a curry and your mouth lights up in anticipation”. This is very much the way I feel about curries, therefore every time I go to a Thai restaurant that specialises in using aromatic ingredients, my interest is piqued and I hope that the flavours have been used in an exciting way. Thai food has always been, for me at least, a bit of a treat, a wonderful way of blending subtle, fragrant flavours with the fiery heat of chillies. The general absence of drier spices, such as cumin and coriander seed, make for more delicate, though no less flavoursome dishes which I love, but only when executed well.
When you walk in to Sang Thai, cosseted away in Sheen Road, slightly out of the hustle and bustle of the main street in Richmond, you are greeted in a traditional Thai manner, with a wai, the hands placed together, small bow and cordial welcome. The décor is dominated by elephants, the national symbol of Thailand, but this is tastefully done and – not just because this is my favourite animal — I liked it.
On the table were fresh flowers, crystal wine glasses, engraved with more elephants, and some seriously tasty spicy crackers. The little touches suggested that someone in the restaurant had a fine eye for detail, it only remained to see if this extended to the food.
The menu covers an impressive selection of meat, fish and vegetarian meals, as you would expect, but apart from green and red curries, many of the dishes were specific, you would not generally find a pork dish similar to a fish one as the herbs and spices seem to be matched to the ingredients. For example the only meat matched with the powerful, sour tamarind was duck, while lemongrass was limited to the seafood and chicken, where it was more likely to complement than be overpowered.
The wine list is not extensive, but includes a good selection from across the world, from rounded new world reds to lighter fragrant whites, many of which would match adequately with the Thai flavours.
Continue reading